Chittorgarh Fort (Hindi/Rajasthani: चित्तौड दुर्ग Chittorgarh
Durg) is the largest fort in India and the grandest in the state of
Rajasthan. It is a World Heritage Site. The fort, plainly known as
Chittor, was the capital of Mewar and is today situated several
kilometres south of Bhilwara. It was initially ruled by Guhilot and
later by Sisodias, the Suryavanshi clans of Chattari Rajputs, from the
7th century until it was finally abandoned in 1568 after the siege by
Emperor Akbar in 1567. It sprawls majestically over the hill 180 m in
height spread over an area of 280 ha above the plains of the valley
drained by the Berach River. The fort precinct with an evocative history
is studded with a series of historical palaces, gates, temples and two
prominent commemoration towers. These monumental ruins have inspired the
imagination of tourists and writers for centuries.
The fort was
sacked three times between the 15th and 16th centuries; in 1303, Allauddin Khilji defeated Rana Ratan Singh, in 1535, Bahadur Shah, the
Sultan of Gujarat, defeated Bikramjeet Singh and in 1567, Emperor Akbar
defeated Maharana Udai Singh II who left the fort and founded Udaipur.
Each time the men fought bravely, rushing out of the fort walls and charging
the enemy but lost every time. Following these defeats, Jauhar was
committed thrice by more than 13,000 ladies and children of the Rajput
heroes who laid their lives in battles at Chittorgarh Fort, first led by
Rani Padmini, wife of Rana Rattan Singh, who was killed in the battle in
1303, and later by Rani Karnavati in 1537 AD.
Thus, the fort
represents the quintessence of tribute to the nationalism, courage,
medieval chivalry and sacrifice exhibited by the Mewar rulers of Sisodia
and their kinsmen and women and children between the 7th and 16th
centuries. The rulers, their soldiers, the women folk of royalty and the
commoners considered death as a better option than dishonour in the face
of surrender to the foreign invading armies.
GEOGRAPHY
Chittorgarh is located in the southern part of the state of Rajasthan, 233 km from
Ajmer, midway between Delhi and Mumbai on the National Highway 8 (India)
in the road network of Golden Quadrilateral. Chittorgarh is situated
where National Highways No. 76 & 79 intersect.
The fort rises
abruptly above the surrounding plains and is spread over an area of 2.8
km2. The highest elevation at the fort is 1,075 m. It is situated on
the left bank of the Berach river (a tributary of the Banas River) and
is linked to the new town of Chittorgarh (known as the 'Lower Town')
developed in the plains after 1568 AD when the fort was deserted in
light of the introduction of artillery in the 16th century, and therefore
the capital was shifted to more secure Udaipur, located on the eastern
flank of Aravalli hill range. Mughal Emperor Akbar attacked and sacked
this fort which was but one of the 84 forts of Mewar, but the capital was
shifted to Aravalli hills, where heavy artillery & cavalry were not
effective. A winding hill road of more than 1 km length from the new
town leads to the west end main gate, called Ram Pol, of the fort.
Within the fort, a circular road provides access to all the gates and
monuments located within the fort walls.
The fort that once
boasted of 84 water bodies has only 22 of them now. These water bodies
are fed by natural catchment and rainfall and have a combined storage
of 4 billion litres that could meet the water needs of an army of
50,000. The supply could last for four years. These water bodies are in
the form of ponds, wells and step wells.
HISTORY
Chittorgarh
Fort is considered to be the largest fort of India in terms of area. It
is stated that the fort was constructed by the Mauryans during the 7th
century AD and hence derives its name after the Mauryan ruler,
Chitrangada Mori, as inscribed on coins of the period. Historical
records show Chittorgarh fort as the capital of Mewar for 834 years. It
was established in 734 AD by Bappa Rawal, the founder ruler in the hierarchy
of the Sisodia rulers of Mewar. It is also said that the fort was
gifted to Bappa Rawal as part of the Solanki princess’s dowry in the 8th
century. The fort was looted and destroyed at the hands of Emperor Akbar
in 1568 AD and never resettled but only refurbished in
1905 AD. Three important battles were fought to control the fort; in
1303, Ala-ud-din Khilji besieged the fort; in 1535, Sultan of Gujarat
Bahadur Shah besieged the fort; and in 1568, Mughal Emperor Akbar
attacked the fort. Not that there were only defeats at the fort.
Excluding the periods of siege, the fort had always possessed the Sisodias of the Guhilot (or Gehlot/Guhila) clan of
Rajputs, who descended from Bappa Rawal. There were also success stories
of the establishment of the fort and its reconstruction after every siege before it was finally abandoned in 1568, all of which are narrated.
Chittor
is cited in the Mahabharat epic. It is said that Bhima, the second of
the Pandava brothers of Epic Mahabharata fame, known for his mighty
strength gave a powerful hit with his fist to the ground that resulted
in water springing up to form a large reservoir. It is called Bhimlat
Kund, an artificial tank named after Bhima. Folk legend also mentions
that Bhima started building the fort.
BAPPA RAWAL
The
earliest history linked to the Bappa Rawal's fort is that of the Huna
Kingdom of Sialkot (of Mihir Kula 515-540 AD) which was destroyed by
Yashodharman. This was subsequently seized by a new dynasty of
Kshatriyas called Tak or Tanaka. According to historians, the Taxak Mori
were the lords of Chittor from a very early period. After a few
generations, the Guhilots supplanted them. From 725 to 735 AD, there
were numerous defenders who appeared to have considered the cause of
Chittor their own, the Tak from Asirgarh. This race seems to have
retained possession of Asirgarh for at least two centuries after this
event, and one of its chieftains Bappa Rawal was the most conspicuous
leader in the lineage of Prithvi Raj. In the poems of Chandar, he is
called the "Standard, bearer, Tak of Asir."
SIEGE OF 1303
Ala
ud din Khilji, Sultan of Delhi, rallied his forces against Mewar, in
1303 AD. The Chittorgarh fort was till then considered impregnable and
grand, atop a natural hill. But his immediate reason for invading the
fort was his obsessive desire to capture Rani Padmini, the unrivalled
beautiful queen of Rana Ratan Singh and take her into his harem. The
Rana, out of politeness, allowed the Khilji to view Padmini through a
set of mirrors. But this viewing of Padmini further fired Khilji’s
desire to possess her. After the viewing, as a gesture of courtesy, he was treacherously captured when the Rana accompanied the Sultan to the outer gate. Khilji conveyed to the queen that the Rana would be released
only if she agreed to join his harem. But the queen had other plans. She
agreed to go to his camp in strict secrecy if permitted to go in a Royal style with an entourage. Instead of her going, she sent 700 well-armed soldiers disguised in litter and they rescued the Rana and took
him to the fort. But Khilji chased them to the fort where a fierce
battle ensued at the outer gate of the fort in which the Rajput soldiers
were overpowered and the Rana was killed. Khilji won the battle on
August 26, 1303. Soon thereafter, instead of surrendering to the Sultan,
the royal Rajput ladies led by Rani Padmini preferred to die through
the Rajput’s ultimate tragic rite of Jauhar (self-immolation on a pyre).
In revenge, Khilji killed thirty thousand Hindus. He entrusted the fort
to his son Khizr Khan to rule and renamed the fort as 'Khizrabad'. He
also showered gifts on his son by way of
a red canopy, a robe
embroidered with gold and two standards, one green and the other black, and threw rubies and emeralds upon him.
He returned to Delhi after the fierce battle at the fort.
RANA HAMMIR & SUCCESSORS
Khizr
Khan’s rule at the fort lasted till 1311 AD and due to the pressure of
Rajputs he was forced to entrust power to the Sonigra chief Maldeva who
held the fort for 7 years. Hammir Singh, usurped control of the fort
from Maldeva by “treachery and intrigue” and Chittor once again regained
its past glory. Hammir, before his death in 1364 AD, had converted
Mewar into a fairly large and prosperous kingdom. The dynasty (and clan)
fathered by him came to be known by the name Sisodia after the village
where he was born. His son Ketra Singh succeeded him and ruled with
honour and power. Ketra Singh’s son Lakha who ascended the throne in
1382 AD also won several wars. His famous grandson Rana Kumbha came to
the throne in 1433 AD and by that time the Muslim rulers of Malwa and
Gujarat had acquired considerable clout and were keen to usurp the
powerful Mewar state.
RANA KUMBHA & CLAN
There was
resurgence during the reign of Rana Kumbha in the 15th century. Rana
Kumbha, also known as Maharana Kumbhakarna, son of Rana Mokal, ruled
Mewar between 1433 AD and 1468 AD. He is credited with building up the
Mewar kingdom assiduously as a force to reckon with. He built 32 forts
(84 fortresses formed the defense of Mewar) including one in his own
name, called Kumbalgarh. But his end came in 1468 AD at the hands of his
own son Rana Udaysimha (Uday Singh I) who assassinated him to gain the
throne of Mewar. This patricide was not appreciated by the people of
Mewar; consequently, his brother Rana Raimal assumed the reins of
power in 1473. After his death in May 1509, Sangram Singh (also known as
Rana Sanga), his youngest son, became Mewar's ruler, bringing in a new phase in the history of Mewar. Rana Sanga, with support from
Medini Rai (a Rajput chief of Alwar), fought a valiant battle against
Mughal emperor Babar at Khanwa in 1527. He ushered in a period of
prestige to Chittor by defeating Gujarat's rulers and effectively interfering in Idar's matters. He also won small areas
of the Delhi territory. In the ensuing battle with Ibrahim Lodi, Rana
won and acquired some districts of Malwa. He also defeated the combined
might of Sultan Muzaffar of Gujarat and the Sultan of Malwa. By 1525 AD,
Rana Sanga had developed Chittor and Mewar into a formidable military state by great intellect, valour, and his sword. But
in a decisive battle against Babar on March 16, 1527,
the Rajput army of Rana Sanga suffered a terrible defeat and Sanga
escaped to one of his fortresses. But soon thereafter in another attack
on the Chanderi fort the valiant Rana Sanga died and with his death the
Rajput confederacy collapsed.
SIEGE OF 1534
Bahadur Shah
who came to the throne in 1526 AD as the Sultan of Gujarat besieged the
Chittorgarh fort in 1534. The fort was sacked and, once again the
medieval dictates of chivalry determined the outcome. Following the
defeat of the Rana, it is said 13,000 Rajput women committed jauhar
(self immolation on the funeral pyre) and 3,200 Rajput warriors rushed
out of the fort to fight and die.
SIEGE OF 1567
The final
Siege of Chittorgarh came 33 years later, in 1567, when the Mughal
Emperor Akbar invaded the fort. Akbar wanted to conquer Mewar, which was ably ruled by Rana Uday Singh II, a fine prince of Mewar. To
establish himself as the supreme lord of Northern India, he wanted to
capture the renowned fortress of Chittor as a precursor to conquering
the whole of India. Shakti Singh, son of the Rana who had quarrelled with
his father, had run away and approached Akbar when the latter had camped
at Dholpur preparing to attack Malwa. During one of these meetings, in
August 1567, Shakti Singh learned from a remark made in jest by
emperor Akbar that he intended to wage war against Chittor. Akbar
had told Shakti Singh in jest that since his father had not submitted
himself before him like other princes and chieftains of the region, he
would attack him. Startled by this revelation, Shakti Singh quietly
rushed back to Chittor and informed his father of the impending invasion
by Akbar. Akbar was furious with the departure of Shakti Singh and
decided to attack Mewar to humble the arrogance of the Ranas. In
September 1567, the emperor left for Chittor, and on October 20, 1567,
camped in the vast plains outside the fort. In the meantime, on the advice of his council of advisors, Rana Udai Singh decided to go away from
Chittor to the hills of Udaipur. Jaimal and Patta, two brave army
chieftains of Mewar, were left behind to defend the fort along with
8,000 Rajput warriors under their command. Akbar laid siege to the
fortress. The Rajput army fought valiantly and Akbar himself had
narrowly escaped death. In this grave situation, Akbar had prayed for
divine help for achieving victory and vowed to visit the shrine of the
sufi saint Khwaja at Ajmer. The battle continued till February 23, 1568.
On that day Jaymal was seriously wounded but he continued to fight with
support from Patta. Jayamal ordered Jauhar to be performed when many
beautiful princesses of Mewar and noble matrons committed
self-immolation at the funeral pyre. Next day the gates of the fort were
opened, and Rajput soldiers rushed out bravely to fight the enemies.
Jayamal and Patta, who fought bravely were at last killed in action. One
figure estimates that 30,000 soldiers were killed in action. Akbar
immediately repaired himself to Ajmer to perform his religious vow.
RETURN OF THE FORT TO MEWAR
But
in 1616, Jehangir returned Chittor fort to the Rajputs, when Maharana
Amar Singh was the chief of Mewar. However, the fort was not resettled
though it was refurbished several centuries later in 1905 during British
Raj.
PRECINCTS
The fort which is roughly in the shape of a
fish has a circumference of 13 km with a maximum width of 3 km and it
covers an area of 700 acres. The fort is approached through a zig zag
and difficult ascent of more than 1 km from the plains, after crossing
over a bridge made in limestone. The bridge spans the Gambhiri River and
is supported by ten arches (one has a curved shape while the balance
have pointed arches). Apart from the two tall towers, which dominate the
majestic fortifications, the sprawling fort has a plethora of palaces
and temples (many of them in ruins) within its precincts.
The 305
hectares component site, with a buffer zone of 427 hectares,
encompasses the fortified stronghold of Chittorgarh, a spacious fort
located on an isolated rocky plateau of approximately 2 km length and
155m width.
It is surrounded by a perimeter wall 4.5 kilometres
long, beyond which a 45° hill slope makes it almost inaccessible to
enemies. The ascent to the fort passes through seven gateways built by
the Mewar ruler Rana Kumbha (1433- 1468) of the Sisodia clan. These
gates are called, from the base to the hill top, the Paidal Pol, Bhairon
Pol, Hanuman Pol, Ganesh Pol, Jorla Pol, Laxman Pol, and Ram Pol, the
final and main gate.
The fort complex comprises 65 historic built
structures, among them 4 palace complexes, 19 main temples, 4 memorials
and 20 functional water bodies. These can be divided into two major
construction phases. The first hill fort with one main entrance was
established in the 5th century and successively fortified until the 12th
century. Its remains are mostly visible on the western edges of the
plateau. The second, more significant defence structure was constructed
in the 15th century during the reign of the Sisodia Rajputs, when the
royal entrance was relocated and fortified with seven gates, and the
medieval fortification wall was built on an earlier wall construction
from the 13th century.
Besides the palace complex, located on the
highest and most secure terrain in the west of the fort, many of the
other significant structures, such as the Kumbha Shyam Temple, the Mira
Bai Temple, the Adi Varah Temple, the Shringar Chauri Temple, and the
Vijay Stambh memorial were constructed in this second phase. Compared to
the later additions of Sisodian rulers during the 19th and 20th
centuries, the predominant construction phase illustrates a
comparatively pure Rajput style combined with minimal eclecticism, such
as the vaulted substructures which were borrowed from Sultanate
architecture. The 4.5 km walls with integrated circular enforcements are
constructed from dressed stone masonry in lime mortar and rise 500m
above the plain. With the help of the seven massive stone gates, partly
flanked by hexagonal or octagonal towers, the access to the fort is
restricted to a narrow pathway which climbs up the steep hill through
successive, ever narrower defence passages. The seventh and final gate
leads directly into the palace area, which integrates a variety of
residential and official structures. Rana Kumbha Mahal, the palace of
Rana Kumbha, is a large Rajput domestic structure and now incorporates
the Kanwar Pade Ka Mahal (the palace of the heir) and the later palace
of the poetess Mira Bai (1498-1546). The palace area was further
expanded in later centuries, when additional structures, such as the
Ratan Singh Palace (1528–31) or the Fateh Prakash, also named Badal
Mahal (1885-1930), were added. Although the majority of temple
structures represent the Hindu faith, most prominently the Kalikamata
Temple (8th century), the Kshemankari Temple (825-850) the Kumbha Shyam
Temple (1448) or the Adbuthnath Temple (15th- 16th century), the hill
fort also contains Jain temples, such as Shringar Chauri (1448) and Sat
Bis Devri (mid-15th century) Also the two tower memorials, Kirti Stambh
(13th-14th century) and Vijay Stambha (1433-1468), are Jain monuments.
They stand out with their respective heights of 24m and 37m, which
ensure their visibility from most locations of the fort complex.
Finally, the fort compound is home to a contemporary municipal ward of
approximately 3,000 inhabitants, which is located near Ratan Singh Tank
at the northern end of the property.
GATES
The fort has
total seven gates (in local language, gate is called Pol), namely the
Padan Pol, Bhairon Pol, Hanuman Pol, Ganesh Pol, Jodla Pol, Laxman Pol
and the main gate named the Ram Pol (Lord Rama's Gate). All the gateways
to the fort have been built as massive stone structures with secure
fortifications for military defense. The doors of the gates with pointed
arches are reinforced to fend off elephants and cannon shots. The top
of the gates have notched parapets for archers to shoot at the enemy
army. A circular road within the fort links all the gates and provides
access to the numerous monuments (ruined palaces and 130 temples) in the
fort.
During the second siege, Prince Bagh Singh died at the
Padan Pol in 1535 AD. Prince Jaimal of Badnore and his clansman Kalla
were killed by Akbar at a location between the Bhairon Pol and Hanuman
Pol in the last siege of the fort in 1567 (Kalla carried the wounded
Jaimal out to fight). Chhatris, with the roof supported by corbeled
arches, have been built to commemorate the spots of their sacrifice.
Their statues have also been erected, at the orders of Emperor Akbar, to
commemorate their valiant deaths. At each gate, cenotaphs of Jaimal (in
the form of a statue of a Rajput warrior on horseback) and Patta have
also been constructed. At Ram Pol, the entrance gate to the fort, a
Chaatri was built in memory of the 15 year old Patta of Kelwa, who had
lost his father in battle, and saw the sword yielding mother and wife on
the battle field who fought valiantly and died at this gate. He led the
saffron robed Rajput warriors, who all died fighting for Mewar’s
honour. Suraj Pol (Sun Gate) provides entry to the eastern wall of the
fort. On the right of Suraj Pol is the Darikhana or Sabha (council
chamber) behind which lie a Ganesha temple and the zenana (living
quarters for women). A massive water reservoir is located towards the
left of Suraj Pol. There is also a peculiar gate, called the Jorla Pol
(Joined Gate), which consists of two gates joined together. The upper
arch of Jorla Pol is connected to the base of Lakshman Pol. It is said
that this feature has not been noticed anywhere else in India. The
Lokota Bari is the gate at the fort’s northern tip, while a small
opening that was used to hurl criminals into the abyss is seen at the
southern end.
VIJAY STAMBHA
The Vijay Stambha (Tower of
Victory) or Jaya Stambha, called the symbol of Chittor and a
particularly bold expression of triumph, was erected by Rana Kumbha
between 1458 and 1468 to commemorate his victory over Mahmud Shah I
Khalji, the Sultan of Malwa, in 1440 AD. Built over a period of ten
years, it raises 37.2 metres over a 4.4 m2 base in nine stories accessed
through a narrow circular staircase of 157 steps (the interior is also
carved) up to the 8th floor, from where there is good view of the plains
and the new town of Chittor. The dome, which was a later addition, was
damaged by lightning and repaired during the 19th century. The Stamba is
now illuminated during the evenings and gives a beautiful view of
Chittor from the top.
KIRTI STAMBHA
Kirti Stambha (Tower of
Fame) is a 22 metres high tower built on a 9.1 m base with 4.6 m at the
top, is adorned with Jain sculptures on the outside and is older
(probably 12th century) and smaller than the Victory Tower. Built by a
Bagherwal Jain merchant Jijaji Rathod, it is dedicated to Adinath, the
first Jain tirthankar (revered Jain teacher). In the lowest floor of the
tower, figures of the various tirthankars of the Jain pantheon are seen
in special niches formed to house them. These are digambara monuments. A
narrow stairway with 54 steps leads through the six storeys to the top.
The top pavilion that was added in the 15th century has 12 columns.
RANA KUMBHA PALACE
At
the entrance gate near the Vijaya Stamba, Rana Kumbha's palace (in
ruins), the oldest monument, is located. The palace included elephant
and horse stables and a temple to Lord Shiva. Maharana Udai Singh, the
founder of Udaipur, was born here; the popular folk lore linked to his
birth is that his maid Panna DaiPanna Dhai saved him by substituting her
son in his place as a decoy, which resulted in her son getting killed
by Banbir. The prince was spirited away in a fruit basket. The palace is
built with plastered stone. The remarkable feature of the palace is its
splendid series of canopied balconies. Entry to the palace is through
Suraj Pol that leads into a courtyard. Rani Meera, the famous poetess
saint, also lived in this palace. This is also the palace where Rani
Padmini, consigned herself to the funeral pyre in one of the underground
cellars, as an act of jauhar along with many other women. The Nau Lakha
Bandar (literal meaning: nine lakh treasury) building, the royal
treasury of Chittor was also located close by. Now, across from the
palace is a museum and archeological office. The Singa Chowri temple is
also nearby.
FATEH PRAKASH PALACE
Located near Rana Khumba
palace, built by Rana Fateh Singh, the precincts have modern houses and a
small museum. A school for local children (about 5,000 villagers live
within the fort) is also nearby.
GAUMUKH RESERVOIR
A spring
feeds the tank from a carved cow’s mouth in the cliff. This pool was
the main source of water at the fort during the numerous sieges.
PADMINI´S PALACE
Padmini's
Palace or Rani Padmini's Palace is a white building and a three storied
structure (a 19th-century reconstruction of the original). It is
located in the southern part of the fort. Chhatris (pavilions) crown the
palace roofs and a water moat surrounds the palace. This style of
palace became the forerunner of other palaces built in the state with
the concept of Jal Mahal (palace surrounded by water). It is at this
Palace where Alauddin was permitted to glimpse the mirror image of Rani
Padmini, wife of Maharana Rattan Singh. It is widely believed that this
glimpse of Padmini's beauty besotted him and convinced him to destroy
Chittor in order to possess her. Maharana Rattan Singh was killed and
Rani Padmini committed Jauhar. Rani Padmini's beauty has been compared
to that of Cleopatra and her life story is an eternal legend in the
history of Chittor. The bronze gates to this pavilion were removed and
transported to Agra by Akbar.
OTHER SIGHTS
Close to Kirti
Sthamba is the Meera Temple, or the Meerabai Temple. Rana Khumba built
it in an ornate Indo–Aryan architectural style. It is associated with
the mystic saint-poet Mirabai who was an ardent devotee of Lord Krishna
and dedicated her entire life to His worship. She composed and sang
lyrical bhajans called Meera Bhajans. The popular legend associated with
her is that with blessings of Krishna, she survived after consuming
poison sent to her by her evil brother-in-law. The larger temple in the
same compound is the Kumbha Shyam Temple (Varaha Temple). The pinnacle
of the temple is in pyramid shape. A picture of Meerabai praying before
Krishna has now been installed in the temple.
Across from
Padmini’s Palace is the Kalika Mata Temple. Originally, a Sun Temple
dated to the 8th century dedicated to Surya (the Sun God) was destroyed
in the 14th century. It was rebuilt as a Kali temple.
Another
temple on the west side of the fort is the ancient Goddess Tulja Bhavani
Temple built to worship Goddess Tulja Bhavani is considered sacred. The
Tope Khana (cannon foundry) is located next to this temple in a
courtyard, where a few old cannons are still seen.
JAUHAR MELA
The
fort and the city of Chittorgarh host the biggest Rajput festival
called the "Jauhar Mela". It takes place annually on the anniversary of
one of the jauhars, but no specific name has been given to it. It is
generally believed that it commemorates Padmini’s jauhar, which is most
famous. This festival is held primarily to commemorate the bravery of
Rajput ancestors and all three jauhars which happened at Chittorgarh
Fort. A huge number of Rajputs, which include the descendants of most of
the princely families, hold a procession to celebrate the Jauhar. It
has also become a forum to air one's views on the current political
situation in the country.
Chittor is cited in the Mahabharat epic. It is said that Bhima, the second of the Pandava brothers of Epic Mahabharata fame, known for his mighty strength gave a powerful hit with his fist to the ground that resulted in water springing up to form a large reservoir. It is called Bhimlat Kund, an artificial tank named after Bhima. Folk legend also mentions that Bhima started building the fort.
